Bon voyage Paris. No, let's make it au revoir, definitely!

Our last full day in Paris. Paul and I breakfasted earlier, and were nearly finished when Amelia came down.
The two of us headed out for a romantic walk together, so nice. Down past Notre Dame and through the flower and bird markets. I have visited these so many times - with Lynette, then with Lynette and Mel, then this time with Amelia, and then all the kids, and lastly today. They're nothing fantastic, although the colours of both the birds and flowers are vibrant. It's hard to see the birds in cages though. Today we saw quite a few being purchased which was good. It remains a very authentic part of Paris, with the smells and sounds that stay in my memory.

Back to the hotel to collect Amelia, and then off to an international mass at Notre Dame. We weren't sure what to expect, and watched the full incense and processional with interest.

After the service

 As we entered we were given candles, that we lit from each others, and then held during the service. For me, I found it a challenge to get past the man-made activities to experience what I was looking for. It probably didn't help that I couldn't understand over half of it! But I was delighted to find that I could participate in a lot of both the singing and the responses. There were several Bible readings that I knew well in English, so could easily follow.   It wasn't something I would do frequently, but certainly I'm glad we went today. It was weird being in the congregation while tourists walked round the perimeter of the church taking photos - some with flashes (which is expressly prohibited).
After church we wandered for a while, looking for a restaurant deemed to be significant enough for our last meal out. We wanted small, non-expensive and authentic, and we found it in a back street off Place Saint-Michel. A lovely way to while away several hours as we reminisced over our last 3 months. Of course one of the brightest crazy memories is of Amelia's 21st.
 
Back to the hotel to change out of church clothes and shoes, and off we set for our final big walk of the holiday. Why do we feel the need to revisit and check that everything is still there?! But we do, so first it was Les Jardins du Luxembourg, and I remembered right at the start of our trip when Amelia and I went - it was mid autumn and I took a lovely photo of her throwing leaves up in the air - she still has it on FB. Today it is mid-winter - beautifully sunny, a chill in the air, and lots of families out for a Sunday stroll.

On down to the Seine, and over Pont Neuf - the oldest bridge in Paris (which is funny as pont neuf means new bridge!) The bells of Notre Dame were ringing, so we stopped to enjoy, and Amelia recorded it on her camera.

Across Ile de la Cite, and past the little garden square where we all hid behind trees and lamp-posts when the kids were over for Amelia's birthday. Such dumb, funny, family games!
On to the right bank, and down Rue de Rivoli with all its shops and sales. Past the ice skating at Hotel de Ville. Up Rue de Temple, and we are in familiar territory now, this was our daily environment when staying in the 3rd for our month. Of course, being Sunday, many of the little cobbled streets are closed to vehicles, and crammed with all generations of Parisiens. Down Rambuteau - stopping to look at 'our' apartment. Finally reaching Place des Vosges, one of our most favourite squares, and we sat on a bench in the sun for a while, absorbing the beauty of a winter Sunday late afternoon in Paris.

Sitting in the sun at Place des Vosges

Through the little hidden door and Hotel Sully's lovely garden, then out to Village St Paul and back down to the Seine. We realised how much at home we feel, and just relish the familiarity that means we can wander at will, knowing if we find ourselves in a strange street it is easy to re-centre ourselves to keep going. How magic is that?!
Across the Seine again, this time going through Ile St Louis, and back up Boulevard Saint Germaine, then up Rue des Ecoles and so arriving at our hotel. About 10km in all, and our feet are tired and sore, and we hope to sleep well tonight!
Nothing remains to be done except to pack - we fold and stuff and cram and sit on suitcases and finally it is done.
The wake-up call is booked for the morning, and the taxi ordered.
Paris, you have been so good to us, thank you.  

Saturday in Paris

Today is the 1st of February - this month I go home. I have put off thinking about it - both because I wanted to make the most of every minute away; and I knew once I started dwelling on thoughts of home I would want to be there right now!
Walking around Paris today has been emotional. I love Paris differently now: no longer an infatuation that is born from books and movies and is unaware of the low points and the reality of the negatives; but a deeper love that embraces the beauty and the drawbacks, the grand ornate architecture and the shabby uncared for back-streets.
This time we are staying in the 5th - the old Latin quarter. It is an area we deliberately skirted round last time (except when we were lost) as we knew we had these 3 days to explore at the end of our holiday. Our hotel is a treat to finish our trip - we have 2 rooms and Amelia has scored the larger - she has a couch and a shower that is huge - the head is the size of a dinner plate! However, she is on the first floor - Paul and I are on the 5th and have a balcony with a view down the boulevard.

There is an old-fashioned painting covering 1 entire wall, we have a double set of windows with drapes held to the side by elegant cords. The ceiling has carved plaster cornices, and the double entry doors have brass fittings. It is everything Amelia and I wanted when we searched for a Paris hotel, and the reason we discounted dozens that proudly advertised their renovated rooms which could then have been anywhere in the world.
We went down to the basement for breakfast this morning in the best French style, and were seated by a well dressed Parisienne woman who brought us a basket of pastries, and little jars of preserves - quince, rhubarb, cherry, guava, honey. Mmmmm. Plus of course café au lait, which came in a coffee pot plus a heated jug of milk. Yum, what a way to start the day. Amelia joined us towards the end which gave us an extra reason to dawdle and have a second cup.
Then it was off to explore. Up the road to La Sorbonne, past the Pantheon (looking sad under miles of scaffolding), and down Boulevard St Germaine to eye all the wonderful shops. We were tempted (and fell) and little bags of scarves, gloves, ties, and necklaces were added to our haul.
A lady stopped me to say she admired my coat - I was thrilled - a genuine Parisienne likes my coat, oh la la!
We entered an arts and crafts shop and all of a sudden a wav of grief swept over me as I ached to share it with Lynette. Amelia's cuddles were so welcome.

Scrapbook supplies - and on sale! Lynette would've loved this.

We walked down a little passage to view the oldest restaurant in Paris, then to a square that was meant to be the most beautiful in Paris (it wasn't), then found a typical restaurant to rest our tired feet and enjoy our customary relaxed lengthy dejourner. Today it was formule de jour (formula of the day) which, for 19 Euros each gave us 3 courses: green salad; 1/4 of a roast chicken, salad and chips; caramel custard and sauce. Very nice, and primed us for another few hours walking.

Up to Boulevard Saint-Michel for some more window shopping - I must say Paul is the perfect husband on these occasions, being delighted with every discovery no matter who it is for.
We wandered down along beside the Seine, but it was rather chilly, so crossed to Ile de la Cite to find the memorial to the 100,000s of people incarcerated from 1933 - 1945. Very sobering.

Getting towards sundown, so crossed from the island to the 3rd, wallowing in familiarity, and watched the ice-skating by Hotel de Ville. It was nearly 6pm and we were cold, so sought the warmth of a café for hot drinks. We were overlooking Hotel de Ville and became aware of a greatly increased police presence (and for Paris that is a lot!). As we left the café we saw crowds at the end of La Place, and closed roads, flashing lights etc, so of course we went to see what was happening. It was a huge protest of French motorcyclists, hundreds and hundreds of them, and nearly as many police - all armed of course. Rather exciting.
We watched for a while - actually we couldn't do anything else because of the crowds and closed streets.

Demonstration time, couldn't get any closer unless we were in it!

Eventually the protest finished, we started for home, and were sidetracked by, of all things (the day before flying out), a bookstore! Amelia bought Les Miserables, which she has been searching for since we arrived, plus Roald Dahl, and for that she was given a free book, so she has 4 more books to fit into someone's (by that I mean Paul's) luggage.

Sunset - the Notre Dame bells were ringing, and a piano-accordion busker was playing.

Back to the hotel for Paul to watch the England/French rugby which is on here in Paris tonight. Unfortunately we got the time wrong, and only caught the second half, but France won in the last 2 minutes and Paul thoroughly enjoyed what he saw.
Down to Amelia's room for fruit and crackers, and then off to bed.
A wonderful day in my favourite city in the world.