Saturday, 1 February 2014

Saturday in Paris

Today is the 1st of February - this month I go home. I have put off thinking about it - both because I wanted to make the most of every minute away; and I knew once I started dwelling on thoughts of home I would want to be there right now!
Walking around Paris today has been emotional. I love Paris differently now: no longer an infatuation that is born from books and movies and is unaware of the low points and the reality of the negatives; but a deeper love that embraces the beauty and the drawbacks, the grand ornate architecture and the shabby uncared for back-streets.
This time we are staying in the 5th - the old Latin quarter. It is an area we deliberately skirted round last time (except when we were lost) as we knew we had these 3 days to explore at the end of our holiday. Our hotel is a treat to finish our trip - we have 2 rooms and Amelia has scored the larger - she has a couch and a shower that is huge - the head is the size of a dinner plate! However, she is on the first floor - Paul and I are on the 5th and have a balcony with a view down the boulevard.

There is an old-fashioned painting covering 1 entire wall, we have a double set of windows with drapes held to the side by elegant cords. The ceiling has carved plaster cornices, and the double entry doors have brass fittings. It is everything Amelia and I wanted when we searched for a Paris hotel, and the reason we discounted dozens that proudly advertised their renovated rooms which could then have been anywhere in the world.
We went down to the basement for breakfast this morning in the best French style, and were seated by a well dressed Parisienne woman who brought us a basket of pastries, and little jars of preserves - quince, rhubarb, cherry, guava, honey. Mmmmm. Plus of course café au lait, which came in a coffee pot plus a heated jug of milk. Yum, what a way to start the day. Amelia joined us towards the end which gave us an extra reason to dawdle and have a second cup.
Then it was off to explore. Up the road to La Sorbonne, past the Pantheon (looking sad under miles of scaffolding), and down Boulevard St Germaine to eye all the wonderful shops. We were tempted (and fell) and little bags of scarves, gloves, ties, and necklaces were added to our haul.
A lady stopped me to say she admired my coat - I was thrilled - a genuine Parisienne likes my coat, oh la la!
We entered an arts and crafts shop and all of a sudden a wav of grief swept over me as I ached to share it with Lynette. Amelia's cuddles were so welcome.

Scrapbook supplies - and on sale! Lynette would've loved this.
We walked down a little passage to view the oldest restaurant in Paris, then to a square that was meant to be the most beautiful in Paris (it wasn't), then found a typical restaurant to rest our tired feet and enjoy our customary relaxed lengthy dejourner. Today it was formule de jour (formula of the day) which, for 19 Euros each gave us 3 courses: green salad; 1/4 of a roast chicken, salad and chips; caramel custard and sauce. Very nice, and primed us for another few hours walking.


Up to Boulevard Saint-Michel for some more window shopping - I must say Paul is the perfect husband on these occasions, being delighted with every discovery no matter who it is for.
We wandered down along beside the Seine, but it was rather chilly, so crossed to Ile de la Cite to find the memorial to the 100,000s of people incarcerated from 1933 - 1945. Very sobering.

Getting towards sundown, so crossed from the island to the 3rd, wallowing in familiarity, and watched the ice-skating by Hotel de Ville. It was nearly 6pm and we were cold, so sought the warmth of a café for hot drinks. We were overlooking Hotel de Ville and became aware of a greatly increased police presence (and for Paris that is a lot!). As we left the café we saw crowds at the end of La Place, and closed roads, flashing lights etc, so of course we went to see what was happening. It was a huge protest of French motorcyclists, hundreds and hundreds of them, and nearly as many police - all armed of course. Rather exciting.
We watched for a while - actually we couldn't do anything else because of the crowds and closed streets.
Demonstration time, couldn't get any closer unless we were in it!
Eventually the protest finished, we started for home, and were sidetracked by, of all things (the day before flying out), a bookstore! Amelia bought Les Miserables, which she has been searching for since we arrived, plus Roald Dahl, and for that she was given a free book, so she has 4 more books to fit into someone's (by that I mean Paul's) luggage.
Sunset - the Notre Dame bells were ringing, and a piano-accordion busker was playing.
Back to the hotel for Paul to watch the England/French rugby which is on here in Paris tonight. Unfortunately we got the time wrong, and only caught the second half, but France won in the last 2 minutes and Paul thoroughly enjoyed what he saw.
Down to Amelia's room for fruit and crackers, and then off to bed.
A wonderful day in my favourite city in the world.


      

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